Monday, November 30, 2015

What's It Like to Attend L'Institut de française, Villefranche-sur-mère?

In this series of 5 blog pages (this is the fifth of 5) I try to describe objectively what the school offers and some things that perhaps only previous students can share with prospective students. 

I’m neither endorsing nor discouraging anyone from attending the Institut. This is not a site for the school. If interested, please search for their current website address on the Internet. (It’s easy to find). 

What’s the experience of attending L'Institut like?

You will be observed and coached almost constantly by teachers and staff for eight hours. Most classes have 8 – 10 students, depending on the total number of élèves (students) and their test scores. The classes offer a highly interactive education.  A new (as of November 2014) language study laboratory is used to reinforce the teacher’s lessons—usually daily. Students can transfer between levels when needed.

  • Every level will require individuals to give an exposé (presentation) and possibly lead a debate topic. The length of time required for an exposé starts at 5 – 10 minutes. Debates begin somewhere in the mid-intermediate level. Good topics include travel and other neutral experiences for which you have the vocabulary.
  • Bear in mind that this is not a school that emphasizes the written word (writing is used for homework and testing). You will not be reading any significant amount of French for classes but the tests include orthography (dictation), written expression, and comprehension of the written word.
  • The teachers are all highly qualified to teach French as a foreign language and, as far as I can tell, they have all lived in English speaking countries for long periods of time. A few speak other languages as well. Thus, they know the pitfalls for students who speak English as a first language.
  • Expect to be in a highly structured class environment that is totally controlled by the “prof”. Besides long class sessions there are also topical sessions which explore French culture and language (with other teachers). You will be required to speak in French frequently and regularly.
  • The school restricts use of wi-fi and portable phones. It doesn’t have total control of this obviously, but students using phones disrupts the flow of French immersion. Some students are communicating with their office, others with family. For some, their phone is their dictionary. One does better to just focus on French without interruptions. Use of phones can also be a source of irritation with other class members.


I think anyone motivated to improve their oral French at this school will improve more than they think in a short period of time. I have been pleasantly surprised at the objective appraisal that the exit testing provides.

Physical Challenges, Housing, Meals and more...

Physical challenges: The Institut is located on the side of a steep and very high hill along with much of the rest of the town of Villefranche-sur-mère.
  • You will be climbing and descending steep hills to get to restaurants, stores and banks if not to the school every day. If you are not a fit person, be aware that you will have to solve this issue for yourself with transit, taxi or a friend driving you and by allowing enough time to get to the school in the morning. The school will provide assistance in figuring this out if you need the help.

  • Inside the Institut are many stairs that will have to be negotiated. There is no elevator (at least I’ve never seen one). A more than redeeming aspect of the school is a marvelous garden of trees, flowers and other plants with patios, fountains, etc. that students are free to enjoy.
Housing: The Institut will assist you in finding housing if you request it. Many find their own housing through websites and they even sometimes stay in a hotel. We have been happy with what we have found through the school. The price of housing can vary quite a bit.

  • The last time I attended this school there was a lot of complaining by some people about paying the same amount as someone with a much nicer place. It’s a tourist real estate market in this area of the world: prices vary dramatically depending on demand, location and amenities nearby.

  • To quote one of the school administrators, “The school is not a hotel.” meaning that they try to please, but their main business is the school. My advice is to make your own arrangements if this is a very important aspect of the experience to you. If you do that, be aware of potential problems that may come up such providing bedding (metric size) and towels for yourself. Be aware of the distance from the school by way of the streets (not as the crow flies) because they are very circuitous as well as uphill and down. A rally driver I met in class told us the winding streets are perfect for rally driving.
Meals at the Institut:
  • There is a light breakfast of bread, jam, yogurt and cheeses. Coffee and tea are offered. It’s strongly encouraged to begin your school day there and required to speak French. As the month progresses, fewer people attend breakfast. Besides the usual early morning delays (such as staying out late the night before), some people please themselves better by making their own breakfast before school and dropping by the breakfast group late.

  • Lunch is provided by the school. As part of the language program, teachers are always placed at each table to encourage the French immersion environment and to keep people talking. The meals are varied and represent the culinary side of French culture. There is always at small starter course, a main course, and a dessert. Water and apple juice are served with the meal. Coffee and tea are served at the end of the meal with dessert.

If you request a special diet (as I have) the staff will do as much as they can to offer alternatives. Make sure you ask for this from the kitchen staff on the first day so they know exactly what you need.

Issues arising out of arriving late or beginning mid-session

If you arrive at the Institut mid-day or mid-week due to travel issues search out copies of all of the printed hand-outs that are distributed the first of the month to new students. Look at what other students at your level have been given and then go to the office and make sure you get copies.

Shopping and transportation basics

It would have been nice to know certain things before arriving in Villefranche for the first time.

Shopping hours are very different in France primarily due to labor laws. Traditionally, Sunday shopping doesn’t exist (except for some small exceptions). Businesses such as the pharmacies, bakeries, butcher shops, etc. are not traditionally open mid-day any day.

Bring a shopping bag when you go to the stores. Beginning in January 2016, bags will not be provided due to “green” legislation. At the moment, you can ask for (buy) them at the store if needed.

Open air markets exist. Ask about the schedule. The time of year strongly influences what is available.

There are new laws proposed to allow some of the larger tourist areas to open stores on Sundays… but at this writing, it has not been implemented. There are a few stores open in this area on weekends, but mostly some distance away from the school’s proximity.

Important for students new to Villefranche-sur-mère will be access to buying basics such as toilet paper and other essentials. Neither the school, nor your landlord, provides the items you would find in a hotel.

If you arrive on the Sunday before the first day of school, you may not have access to a store depending on time of day. Do not rely on being able to get to a pharmacy immediately… and certain things, like nail polish remover, are only sold at pharmacies. There are several bank ATMs for taking out cash any time of day, but you have to find them.

You will be told on first Monday that there is a Casino (a brand of small grocery store) at the top of the hill on the Moyen Corniche that is open everyday, not usually past 8 PM.

Many restaurants will be open, but I’ve found, especially in winter, that they will not open if the owner has a private party or it’s a long weekend and the staff goes on break. Frequently, signs aren’t posted on the door so that you know they are closed. If the lights aren’t on, don’t bother to wait.

Do not expect anyone in the grocery stores to understand much English. Storage and packaging can be very different than what you are used to.

Transportation in the area

The Institut is situated very close to Nice. It has reasonable bus connections, but they don’t always run on time especially on weekends.

When there are a lot of tourists in the area, and at rush hours, the buses are packed (and this is year round—for example February has both the “Carnival” in Nice and the “Citrus Festival” in Menton which loads up the buses). If the bus is already full when it reaches you it will skip your stop and you will wait for the next scheduled bus.

There have been times when we’ve waited for a bus for an hour and then called a taxi (which aren’t inexpensive). You can rent in a car in Nice, but bear in mind that parking can be tricky on hillsides and there are a lot of no-parking areas. If you go out with friends, consider calling a taxi and share the ride.

I love trains but I have reservations about recommending them when departing and returning to Villefranche. There is a train station at Villefranche-sur-mère without staff. The station is located at the far east end of the old town. From there, it’s difficult to climb the hill especially with luggage. You can call a taxi if you have a portable phone that works in France and know the number. Don’t expect the taxi driver to speak excellent English, although they will know a little. I recommend spending a day exploring the town before you rely on this train stop for your transportation needs.

Most people, who are fit, find walking and running to be the most efficient way to get around. You just have to plan for it. Caveat: You may not want to walk one-way in the dark for 40 minutes from downtown Nice in the dark or in a downpour. Think ahead.

The Weather
Three times out of four visits to this area we found ourselves extremely happy to have umbrellas. When it rains on the Cote d’Azure, it’s often a downpour for several hours. I recommend a water proof jacket with hood, a strong umbrella for wind and rain, and maybe water-tolerant footwear.

The average temperature isn’t relevant; bring light clothes for hot weather and a sweater and jacket for the cooler times. In summer, the temperatures can be very high and, while air conditioning is becoming more common, housing may not be air conditioned. The school is air conditioned. Located on the Mediterranean, the air is humid not desert dry.

Packing Suggestions

Attending the school will mean that you don’t have much time to shop when stores are open. Make a list of “must haves no matter what” and pack them along. You may be able to find items locally, but not at a convenient time or place.

My personal packing list of items for staying at Villefranche while in school:

  • pain killer tablets for sore muscles (only 10 tablets are sold at a time in France and only at pharmacies)
  • band-aids
  • heating pad that does not require electricity
  • cold packs
  • umbrella
  • water proof shoes
  • scarves/hats
  • thin sweaters
  • lined pads of paper and pencils and pens
  • a small French dictionary and or French verb book
  • paper clips, folders
  • scissors
  • highlighters and colored pens
  • a small thermos for carrying tea/coffee/water (there are no drinking fountains at the school but there is a coffee machine that works—most of the time)
  • survival snacks for when you can’t get to a store
  • a sun block you like
  • sunglasses
(This is the end page of a series of 5 blog pages.)





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